Oh, The Places We Go

Summer is the time for playing, eh? And at last, we got out to some of Kabul's playgrounds: Qargha Lake and the Panjshir River.

It was a lovely June evening, and high time for a drive. Some friends suggested an outdoor restaurant on Qargha Lake, a haven for those of us tired of the dry-dust of Kabul in summer. By day, the waters of Qargha are busy with paddle boats & casual swimmers, and the shores dotted with picnics & parties. By night, the shores become a place of soothing mountain lake breezes and breath-taking sunsets. A great place for an other world feeling while a hop-skip & jump from Kabul.


Within sight of the waters of Qargha are hills beckoning even the out-of-fitness wanderers to come and see.

In the cool of the day we began our ascent from the shores of Qargha, whose blue waters are visible in the upper right of the photo. Within minutes, we progressed through the small pine woods into hills dotted with sheep, goats, and shepherds.

The hills surrounding Kabul were once blanketed with landmines, but through nearly a decade of international effort, these hills around Qargha have been declared mine free. And so have returned the Kuchi herders, leading their legions of livestock over hills, through wadis, and along ridges in search of pasture.


After an hour or so of hiking, we left the herds behind at lower elevations. Up and up we hikers six progressed into un-pastured land speckled with wildflowers securely tucked between boulders. Even though we have lived a mile high for the past year, our lungs stung by the thinning air.

Our three years in California spoiled us, with hiking opportunities every week. But, O, for the thrill of finally getting out for the first hike in our new country!


Next stop, the Panjshir River in the Panjshir Province, a three hours drive to the north.

Entering the Panjshir is a dramatic event, as the road turns sharply left entering a gorge and abruptly paralleling a raging river. The road hugs the river, as it zigzags through the gorge. Once through the gorge, valley widens, revealing alluvial zones heaving with wheat and vibrant communities nestled in hanging valleys above the floodplain.
Rising up nearer the source, we stopped in a misty grove along the banks of the rushing, snow melt fed river for a picnic of dough (a yogurt drink with chopped cucumber, minced cilantro, pepper, & ice), dates, and cookies. The land belongs to the family of a friend, who quickly and kindly lent toshaks (thin mattress-like cushions), pillows and a mat upon which we could recline while enjoying the scenery, flavors and sounds.

As it was mulberry season and we were lounging in a lawn neighboring an orchard of walnut & mulberries...

The gents hastened to gather a sweet snack of fresh mulberries! With a shake of a branch, ripe berries would fall onto the tarp, which would then be folded to channel the multicolored berries into an awaiting basket. After a quick washing in the swift Panjshir current, we dove into these delectable sweets.

As a pomological note, these fruit, whether white, pink, purple, or black are all ripe! The mulberry of Afghanistan are varieties of Morus alba, a most interesting specimen that appears to be more like a hybrid of M. alba & M. nigra. The common courtyard fruit are eaten fresh and dried, with dried fruit available in the market year-round. These colorful mulberries are 2-3cm long, and have a sweetness comparable to a sugar cube with a subtle complexion of tarty-fruitiness & wine. The great sadness is that the fresh season is short and the fruit overly fragile!

There's a country full of pleasures yet to be explored --- so stay tuned!